Wednesday, December 28, 2011

My Extremely Long Travel To Paris

I have a 7am flight leaving Dublin to Paris. Should only take 1.5 hours, lands an hour outside Paris, so I should get into town around 10am. Boy was I wrong.

Now, I lucked out in Paris because one of my Mom's co-workers offered to house me while I am there. She and her family live in the city. They say the room isn't much, but hey, it is free, I won't complain. It isn't like my hostel will be any better.

We take off on time and prepare to land. As we land I note that the clouds are really thick. We have been descending for quite a while, I feel I should be able to see the ground or lights or something. Then I finally see the ground, about 50 feet below the plane and it is not a runway, it is buildings. At that exact point the pilot goes full throttle and the plane rapidly starts to climb back up. Once we are above the clouds again the pilot says it is zero visibility and that we just experienced a "missed approach." So pretty much, we about landed, but not on the runway. Easily, the most nerve racking flight experience I have had.

We circle around for about 45 minutes hoping for better weather below but it never comes. We end up having to land at a different airport 2 hours North of this one....so 3 hours North of Paris. We land there with no problem. Everyone gets funneled into buses for the 2 hour drive to the airport we were supposed to land at.

We get rushed on so fast that I don't use the bathroom, which I needed to. I think to myself that isn't a problem, these buses all have their own. Well I found out the hard way that this ones is broken....not good. In the world of bladders, I am Thumbalina. Small. After a bit, I finally convince the driver to make a pit stop, as others have requested a bathroom break as well. That and I am literally go to pee myself otherwise.

We didn't piss away all of the bus ride though. (see what I did there...yeah, creative). Our driver was pretty cool and funny. He gave the microphone to one Italian guy on the bus who gave us a tour of the area. Not knowing anything about where we are he just told us what was on our left and right, followed by making up stories about it. Pretty funny. The front of the bus was a party section, the back was for lazy, sleeping people.

We finally get to the airport and then I hop onto ANOTHER bus for the hour ride to Paris. It turned out alright though, as I got to sit next to two very beautiful Swedish girls visiting friends in Paris. I had a good conversation with them the whole way, while they fed me candy they brought from Sweden for their friends. Sadly, they just handed me the candy, versus actually feeding it, but you take what you can get, right?

I finally get into Paris and immediately find the subway system. I have basic directions to apartment I will be staying at. I get there with little problem, minus walking past it about 3 times looking for the address. Apparently, I am not always the smartest person or at least most observant. When did I arrive? 5pm - 7 hours later than I was expected. There goes a day in Paris.

I get in and Isabell (the Mom) is waiting for me. She is working from home this week. This isn't uncommon on my Mom's company, but I realize she is doing it just for me, which is super nice. She claims it is because she has late afternoon meetings and they get kicked out of the office at 5pm no matter what.

I also meet her daughter, Clemence (18) and her son Paul (14). After all of this I sit down on the couch and before I realize it, I am out cold. So, think about it. Here I am, I just showed up at these peoples apartment, whom I have never met. I meet them and then fall asleep. not 6 feet away, Isabell is working on her computer. I wake up at one point to find a blanket on me. Here is the best part, this in no way bothered or weirded me out. I feel like that is a sign I am progressing from novice traveller.

After a two hour nap I wake up and am ready to go! Isabell is cooking a traditional French meal, which won't be ready for awhile. So Clemence decides to take me to a local cafe for a glass of wine. She steers us away from the tourist ones and instead takes us to a local place she frequents. I very much appreciate this, as I like to see the real culture more. I enjoy my first glass of French wine. I get a Bordeaux of course, what else? I talk to Clemence and find out more about her and France. She finished high school last year and is doing a special two-year program before University. So, you can go to University, but almost everyone can do that. But there is also a tier above that, pretty much a few Ivy League schools. In order to get into those, you have to do two-years of prep work, then take an exam and hope to get accepted. She choose that path. Hardcore..... She studies 7 days a week. Is in class usually from 8-5pm, then comes home and sits studying for at least another 4 hours. She takes exams on weekends all the time. It made me feel like the laziest person in the world, but that is okay. Either way, impressive.

It is a fun conversation. She keeps apologizing for her English (which is quite good) and I keep explaining her English is good. I noticed something about Europeans. Most of them are very self-conscious about their English. They think they are not very good, when often they are very good. I am just impressed they speak two languages when I struggle with one.

After a bit we head back up to the apartment. They live in the art district, in the Northern part of Paris. It is beautiful and very classic Paris in terms of shops, architecture, etc. They live less than 1/2 a kilometer from Moulin Rouge.

When we get back dinner is ready. The Dad isn't home yet, but they don't expect him. He has is own architecture firm and teaches architecture at a University as well. He works 12+ hours a day.

We enjoy a delicious dinner, some wine and good conversation. They ask me all sorts of questions about America, my trips, etc. I ask them about France, Paris, and what I should see. Paul won't speak much English yet. I can tell her is too nervous, but I think he can speak it well, I just need to get him out of his bubble. He loves the Simpsons and video games. We have enough in common that it won't be hard. He started learning English from both of those two things. Not uncommon. I have met multiple Europeans that learned English from Video games. One from rap music.

After dinner the Dad gets home. I talk to him for awhile and then everyone, including my self finally hits the hay after a long, long day.

Ireland Day 2, 3 and 4

My second day in Dublin was pretty uneventful, though still nice. This is a city you can really explore in one day if you want to. The night life is more of what makes Dublin unique.

I took advantage of not having to get up for a flight to sleep in. After I got up, got fed and ready I decided to just wander the city. I am starting to feel better, but still sick. I wander all over the city, at one point stumbling past Google's EU HQ. Sadly, no tours or random visits.

I walk past a few museums, nothing special. The highlight was probably the few city parks I walked through. Absolutely beautiful. In one of them I found a good spot and just sat for an hour thinking about the trip, life and anything else that popped into my head at the moment.

That night the Canadian guy, French guy, myself and two of the American girls from the night before went to a pub near by. After getting there I found it is famous for being the oldest pub in all of Dublin. Small, cozy and lined with dollar bills where people have written where they are from. The five of us have a good time talk about just about anything. Still tired I call it a night around 11pm. I have to be up early the next day....sadly.


Day 3

Today I decide to do a full-day tour of Western Ireland. I get up at 6:30am so I can be at the bus stop by 7am. We take a general bus to the city of Galaway, in which we get picked up by a smaller tour bus. The first ride takes about 2.5 hours, half of which I sleep.

Our first stop is the family's farm. They have tour businesses, these tours, which run everyday of the year except Christmas.....everyday....holy crap. The other is their farm, which is cows. Mostly they breed them and sell off the babies. But to have all these cows you have to have lots of land, which they do. This land also happens to be in a part of Ireland called the (something mountains). Really cool mountains and hills. Very beautiful. We hike around in them, learn about the history, etc. Then we go back to the house and have home made apple pie and carrot cake the Mother of the family made fresh.

Our next stop is the legendary cliffs of Moar. Takes an hour or so to get there. We luck out too, because the weather is pretty nice. Normally, this time of year is terrible in Ireland, but it has been warm enough that I have taken my jacket off. The cliffs are a little colder though and the jacket comes back on. It is a little foggy so our view over the see if pretty limited, but they explain we are lucky because our view of the cliffs is great. Getting this good of a view at this time of the year is less than 50/50.

I walk up and down the cliffs. I find the sign that does don't enter, but notice there is an even better path farther along the cliffs on the other side and there is no wall to stop you from leaning over the edge! So naturally I jump the wall and walk along that path, being careful to stop to the side on the parts where the land has clearly given away and dropped into the sea. (I am chuckling as I know my Mom will be chewing me out later for this). But! I was not the only one with this idea, plenty of other people were walking it, so it can't be that dangerous....right?

After the cliffs we head along the coast and see the scenery change. I am not sure what it is called, but we stop at another section of coast with a pretty cool landscape. The coast is solid rock and all torn up. Looks really cool and is fun to walk on. Only about 20-30 feet above the sea too.

After this we finally head back to Galaway and have 1.5 hours to walk around the city before our bus takes us back to Dublin. It is dark and a cold front have come in, must to my disappointment. I wander the city center, visit some shops before they close (do not get locked-in any of them).

I finally catch the bus and head back to Dublin. I don't really do anything that night. Hang out at the hostel, watch a movie and again go to sleep early.

Day 4

Honestly, Dublin is pretty boring at this point. I can hardly tell you what I did on day 4. I went to the more modern part of Dublin. Mostly just shopping centers. I went to a barber shop and got my beard shaved (it was getting unruly). Finally, I go to bed early yet again. I have another 7am flight to catch.

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Tips for Turkey (Istanbul)

Well, as I sit here in the airport waiting to leave Turkey I have had plenty of time to ponder my Turkish experience. For American's, navigating Western Europe is pretty simple. The culture doesn't really change enough to throw you off balance. I mean, after all it is still western culture. Turkey is a completely different experience, so here are some tips, tricks and warnings I learned while traveling to my first non-western culture.

Turkish People

1) When you get into town, the Turkish people are the friendliest you will ever meet. They don't wait a second to offer help. Here is the catch. In Turkey, if anyone is EVER offering to help you, they are also trying to sell you something. Not kidding, 100% of the Turkish people who approached me, offering help, tried to sell me.

2) Learn to ignore people talking to you. For a polite mid-western, this was torture. It went against my entire upbringing, but you have to. They will say, "hello" ignore it, they won't stop though. They say, "no no, just one question, where are you from?" They don't stop and every single time they try to sell you something. I started turning to these people and saying "okay, 5 Lira." They were confused. I said my time cost 5 Lira and I will stop and talk. While they are confused I walk away. Everyone is selling carpets. I told them I don't even have a home. One guy offered to help me get a home if I bought his carpet, another said it is big enough to make it into my own home. They don't give up.

3) For men - be careful with Turkish men. They are extremely jealous and have no problem resorting to violence. Honestly, if you see a Turkish guy in a group with girls, just ignore the girls. They believe they own the women they are around and you are trying to steal from them. At a cafe, two French girls started talking to me, they initiated. A Turkish guy was sitting with them, being a dick (probably why they started talking to me). He just stared at me, with silent contempt. Then the waiter moved them to a different part of the table and some Turkish guys came up and threatened me for having responded to the girls. Poor girls were trying to get away from the guy, as one explained to me later when he wasn't around and I saw her again.

4) For girls - avoid Turkish men. You want to meet people, have fun, make new friends, etc. Turkish guys love to offer to be a tour guide for cute foreign girls. Consider talking to any other guys not an option anymore. That and the guy won't leave you alone. He now feels ownership over you. Again, these girls complained he was just showing them the city, but not won't let them talk to any other guys without what happened to me, happening. Stick to other foreigners. Trust me.

Where to Stay

1) There are three parts to main Istanbul. Two parts in Europe, one in Asia. The Sultanahmet (old town), Taksim (new part) are both on the European side. The other side, they just call the Asian part.

2) Stay in Sultanahmet for at least a few days. There is where the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Basillica Cistern and Topkapi palace are. It is the main sight-seeing part of the city. Plenty of hotels, hostels, shops and restaurants. The Grand Bazaar is close as well.

3) If you want to experience more of the night life, also spend a few days in Taksim. This is where most of the bars and new shops are. Very modern, lively part of the city. It is still easy to go there during the evening if you want to stay in one place for your trip.

Spending Money

1) Negotiate everything. Not kidding. The only thing I didn't argue on was food and even then I did sometimes. People are constantly trying to get you into their store and shop. If you see something you like, pretend uninterested and first ask for a discount or free drinks, etc. They rarely list prices on things so they can mark them up. Offer lower and don't be afraid to walk away. Start walking and often they will stop you and keep lowering the price. Always bid under what you are willing to pay.

2) Don't really buy a carpet, unless it's magic, which it won't be. Trust me, I looked.. If you do, get it dirt cheap. They often sell them for around $2000, but talking to some Turkish people I met, often those rugs only cost them $250.

3) Public transportation is very cheap, but if you are hopping metro lines, you have to pay again to get to the second one. That is very different than the rest of Europe, when once you are in the tubes, you can switch between them as you wish. Cost is 2 Lira a ride. Same for the ferries.

4) Taxi's are not too expensive, but they scam you as much as possible. Ask for a flat fee to get from A to B. Otherwise they will drive you all over, say a lower price and charge you a higher one when they get there. Met a girl who was drove around in circles for about 15 minutes, paid 30 Lira, for a ride that should have been 3 minutes. Cab driver literally just drove around in circles first.

5) Alcohol is fairly expensive here, but food is pretty cheap.

Scams
There are two major scams, not counting the taxi one.

1) Everyone needs to watch out for this one. Women, often Gypsies, will be shoe shiners. They will accidentally drop their brush in front of you and wait for you to pick it up. When you do and give it back, they are so thankful and insist they shine your shoes. It is a custom, they must repay the favor. At the end, they charge you 10 Lira. I saw this one happen. If you see someone drop their brush, just stare at it and then the Gypsie. They will keep waiting, getting more frustrated because you are not falling for it. They expect people to react quick and become super obvious if they have to wait more than 5 seconds.

2) This one is mostly for guys traveling solo. It is a common one is Greece, too. A guy will come up to you speaking Turkish, you don't know it and he switches to English. Says he lost, he is also traveling solo (names different city) and starts a conversation with you. He ends up appreciating the conversation and says he knows a good bar right over here if you, also a solo traveler, want to join him. Once there, after a few drinks, him or sometimes large groups will hit you with the entire tab. The bar is in on it. They won't let you leave till you pay and I even heard rumors of people being beaten or had the cops called on them for trying to leave. Never go to bars with people you meet on the street. If you want to drink, find a local bar, makes friends by your self with the bartender there and then go to that one. They will get your back.

Must Visit Places

1) Blue Mosque (free)

2) Hagia Sophia (10 Lira)

3) Basilica Cistern (5 Lira)

4) Topkapi Palace (10 Lira)

5) Taksim Square (free)

6) The Asian side (2 Lira boat ride)

7) The Prince Islands (8 Lira for round trip on the ferry)

8) Galata Bridge and Tower

9) The Grand Bazaar

Dublin!

I get up at 4:30am, catch my cab to the airport and hop on my plane. The flight from Prestwick to Dublin is only about 45 minutes. It is pretty awesome seeing the coast of England and Ireland from the air.

I get in and hop on a bus to the city center. For once I print off directions from the bus drop off to the hostel, which is good because it would have sucked finding it otherwise. I get to the hostel around 9:00am. I can't check in until 2pm. All I want to do is sleep, but I guess that won't work.

I see there is a free walking tour at 11am. I sit around the hostel, eat some breakfast and kill time until the tour. The tour was pretty good. A large group and hard to hear, but defiantly worth going on. I meet two other Americans on it. One studying abroad in France and the other was living in Germany, working on the wine harvest and is traveling before going home. They had met at their hostel before the tour and have been hanging out. We all three get along pretty quickly.

After the tour we decide to do the Guinness Brewery tour. The guy has already seen it and heads back to the hostel. The tour is great. Self guided and paced, which I like. After the tour, you can go up to the sky bar, which has an amazing view of the city and get a free Guinness. The rumors are true. Guinness tastes much better in Ireland than the States. My favorite fact I learned at the Brewery was that the founder believed so much in his beer, when he signed his lease for the land the brewery is one, he signed it for 9,000 years. So yes, Guinness will still be there in Dublin for about 8,800 more years. Now that my friends is foresight.

I head back to the hostel and finally check into my room. I take a small nap and eventually head back down to the hostel common area. I met a pretty cool guy who from Canada who just finished high school and is back packing for a year. Hanging out with him and one other guy, who is French, we meet a group of 6 girls the States, who are studying in London together.

After a bit they invite us out with them to the bars. We head to the main and famous bar district in Dublin. We hop from bar to bar. One of the girls asks me to pretend to be her boyfriend because creepy guys keep hitting on her. Yay for being non-threatening!

After a late night at the bars, followed by pizza we all head back to the hostel and I finally sleep.

Last Day in Scotland or So I thought I Could Walk to My Hostel

I wake up, pack and catch a bus to Glasgow. I am not going to waste your time telling you about my incredibly boring wandering of Glasgow. Just know that you can leave it off of your list of cities you must visit. It is like Des Moines, great place to live and work, terrible to visit unless you know someone there.

The highlight of the day was when I asked a local what I should see in the city. She laughed and said, "Haha....um...have you tried Edinburgh?"

Now, I fly out the next morning to Dublin. The airport I fly out of is about an hour south of Glasgow in the city of Prestwick. I take a train down there, which arrives at the airport. Luckily for me the hotel I am staying at is close to the hotel, within walking distance. Or so I thought.

I find out the place on the map is on the exact opposite side of the airport from where I am. But still, not a terrible walk. It is dark, I am tired and I start walking. As I start walking it starts to rain. So there I am, with my backpack, walking along an airport by the highway, it's raining and dark. After about 45 minutes, maybe an hour of walking I get to the village that the hostel is in. I keep walking up and down unable to find it.

I finally go into a local tavern and ask for directions. They look at me and say, "Oh, you can't walk to here or at least you don't want to. You are only half there and it is out in the woods." You are kidding right? Gosh dang. They call a cab for me and I take it the rest of the way there. So I spent a solid 1.5 hours walking in the dark, cold and rain to just have to take a cab anyway.

I finally get to the hotel and luckily I have my own room for once. This place is out of season, so they just book the rooms at cost they say. I only paid about $20 for my own room. Sadly, I still have to be up 4:30am to catch my 6:30am flight.

I spend the evening sitting in the bar, which has Wifi. After awhile I am the only person left and start talking to the guy who works the front desk. He is a pretty nice guy. Just got an iPad himself and wants to talk about it. After awhile, he asks if I want a beer. He said one might magically appear if that is the case. Who am I to turn down free beer? I take it and have a drink with him before his shift is over.

Shortly after he leaves, I head to bed my self hoping to get at least 4 hours of sleep tonight. I can never fall asleep very early, but I can try.

Last Day in Edinburgh

I was really hoping to do a tour of the Scottish Highlands, but feeling as sick as I have been, I didn't want to sit in a bus for 12 hours. but I still want to see them, so I go down to the train station and ask about nice cities in the Highlands that are less than 2 hours away.

After getting a varied amount of advice I settle on a small tourist town about 2 hours North. I buy my train ticket round trip and wait for the next one. I thought it would be a simple ride, kind of boring, but with nice scenery. I was wrong, but in a good way.

I get into my seat, a nice Scottish girl around my age sits across from me. The other two seats and the four across from us are taken by Scottish ladies in their late 30's to age 60. The group is together and celebrating one of their 60 birthdays. They bring on plenty of food and alcohol. Mostly wine, beer and champagne.

Being the usually talkative person I am, I waste no time striking a conversation up with this lovely group. I get along with them instantly. They remind me so much of my Mom and her group of friends. What I mean by that is a bunch of women that don't care about their age, still think they are in their late twenties and know how to have fun, all while being nice people.

I start telling them about my adventures, travels, etc and they talk about their lives. All the while they shower me with free drinks and food. Eventually we pull in the girl sitting across from me. She seems pretty shy, but we get her to open up and have fun with us all. Needless to say, our little group was the life of the party on the train that day.

The saddest part was leaving. I had about 30 seconds to hop off the train while everyone said their goodbyes. They tried to convince me to just stay on the train with them for the rest of the trip (they had 2 hours more to go). And I was tempted. When I got off the train they were all pressed against the window waving. Some even pulled out handkerchiefs to wave as a joke. They pretended to cry. I pretended to run after the train holding my hand out as they went past. It was hilarious. We were all on the same page with the stereotypical train goodbye scene, one which I never thought I would live.

I got to the town and just walked around. It is really more of a village than anything. I had about an hour of daylight left (gets dark by 4pm). I walked down the main street, on a path in the woods, across a river, etc. I just spent my time reflecting and enjoying nature. There was something incredibly peaceful about this village, tranquil is the word.

As it got dark I started to wander the stores to pass the time for my train. I will only be in the village for about three hours. I start to get bored as places close. At one point I am sitting in the back of a store reading a book when I notice it has gotten really quite. I look around and no one is there. I walk up front and realized that the store closed about 15 minutes ago. Luckily, one person was still at the register closing up. The door was locked when I tried to leave and he had to come open it for me. I gave him a look of "oops?" and he gave me one of "you are kidding right...?" Yes, I managed to almost get myself locked into a small store in a village in Scotland.

Eventually, my train comes and I have no luck finding awesome people to sit with. I do luck out and get a section of seats to myself. I drift in and out of sleep on my way back.

Once I finally get back into Edinburgh, I just return to the hostel and call it a night. Tomorrow I take a bus to Glasgow.

Saturday, December 17, 2011

A Morally Rattling Experience

The highlight of my time in Scotland was something that really got me thinking. I noticed a lot of people, around my age, asking for money all over the city. As a policy, I don't give money to people asking for it. I can never trust they will use it for what they intend and firmly believe I worked for this money. I disagree with giving out free money for no work. But I also firmly believe in providing food and shelter for people regardless of work. So I go in, buy a sack of bread and water and offer it to one of them. I half expected him to reject it or sneer at me for not giving money. I expected this because I have literally gotten those responses so often in the States. People have said, "I asked for money, not food."

This guy looks at it, eyes wide and says, "Yes please, thank you!" He physical reaction was mixed between trying to be calm and let me hand it to him and letting his hunger take over lunging for it. The next guy I meet I offer more food and a similar reaction. These people were truly grateful. They didn't expect it, but appreciated it.

This rocked me. I realized that these people literally are starving at times, in a first world country. This guy is young, medium sized and looks healthy enough. What got him here?

I wish I could give these people money and I guess I could, but I am backpacking on the cheap and running out of money far faster than I would have liked. I feel so spoiled and really, like an asshole holding onto it, though. Yes, it is my money, yes I am running out. but I am running out because I am backpacking around Europe. I know I will find a job when I get home and replenish my savings. But at the same time, if I give one person money and reject another because I run out of it, how is that fair?

Say what you want about me, but something I am obsessed with is being fair. If the world was fair, it would be a bette place. If people just treated others fairly, it would be an amazing place. I want to get what I earned and worked for. I want others to get the same. How can I give some here and not others? I can't just give it all up and have nothing left.....but then it hits me. Why can't I? Why shouldn't I?

This question has been wrecking me. I want to go back to a good paying job, but how can I justify getting a good paying job and enjoying my nice amenities when people are still suffering here? But even if I give everything I have, the impact overall will still be so small. I can help a few, but I will be obsessed with all the people that I am not helping. I will feel unfair again. As stupid as this sounds, I know I couldn't be a social worker or psychologist because I would focus on all the people I can't save, not the ones I can or did.

I decided that at worst, while I am unemployed back in Kansas City I can go buy fresh bread and offer it to homeless I encounter. They tend to frequent the same places.

I spent a lot of time thinking about should my next career choice be in charity, volunteer, etc? But I fear I would run into the same issues. Would I truly enjoy my job? I know I would be helping others, but it would truly bring me to realize all the people I can't help. Is it selfish to factor in my happiness?

I still struggle with this. Should I pursue a dream job, I am excited about, and truly want to do or should I pursue one that I could truly help needy people on a daily basis?

To be honest, right now I lean towards the further, not the latter. But we will see.

Edinburgh From Up High

Finally, though still sick, I am going on a good adventure today I decided. The weather is much, much nicer. Not quite sunny, but warmer and not raining.

I start my day off by walking to....crap, I forgot the name of the hill. Anyhow, it is a famous hill in the city. On top of it are a bunch of monuments. Edinburgh is famous for being a place of literary birth. Many famous writers in the 1800's came there to write and live. A famous one, convinced the city it needed more parks and got this land dedicated to being a park. The monuments don't really match very well. It's a random collection of different pieces that just stand out and make it all the more interesting.

The best one is the model of the Parthenon. It is just the front and a few pillars to the side. It is a full 1:1 replica though. I am sitting their reading about it and the story made me laugh out loud. During the mid-1800's Scotland was enjoying a great time of economic prosperity. They decided to build this temple since so much of city was built in that neo-classical/gothic Greek style. Strange, I know, but go with it. Well, after about 8 years of construction and being WAY over budget they just stopped. 150 years later they have never gone to finish it. So instead they just have the front pillars and top to the monument finished.

After walking around the hill, I make my way down. My second goal of the day is to climb Arthur's Seat. It is a small mountain dividing the old Edinburgh from the new. On the top of it is the "Seat" where the king was crowned. Really, it is just a stone.

I make my way down the hill in the direction of the mountain. I wander through random residential streets and end up next to protestors in front of the new parliament building. Apparently, this group of people is mad that they pennons might be cut because the government can't afford them. I guess bankrupting a country is more important that getting a very comfortable pension at the age of 55 for some Scotts.

I make my way to the base of Arthur's Seat and start my climb. It takes me about an hour and I am pretty exhausted. The cold I have is doing me no favors. The climb is beautiful and easily worth any discomfort experienced, though. It is pretty warm out today, to the point that I take my coat off. By the time I reach the top the sun has even come out to play for a bit, but the wind is heavy and forces me to put my jacket back one.

The funny thing is, when I get to the top, I look to one side that I see a lot of people coming from. So I guess, you can drive or take a bus up to hill and just climb the last 200 meters or so. I look at the 1000+ meters I climbed and just grumble to my self. Honestly, the climb is worth it. You don't appreciate things if you don't have to work for them.

On the top I decide this is the perfect plank. On the seat (people sit, stand, etc on it). I get a random guy to take my picture and it turns out great. Also, the guy is from San Francisco. He is on vacation for a few weeks in Scotland and England. We chat and start walking down the mountain together.

We decide to go the easy way because he was told there is a good bar on that side. We he confused, I follow him and we end up off the path walking through the woods. Now, part of me thinks, "Oh good, this is the day I die..." But this guy didn't give me the creepy vibe. It was pretty funny when in the middle of the woods we find a small camp, all naturally made. A wooden shelter, campfire pit, etc. Pretty creepy and we move on quickly. We end up in a meadow and then in a residential neighborhood, suburbs really.

We start wandering through them and at this point, without question, we know we are going the wrong way. Finally, we find a main street and ask a guy for the best way back to old town. He give us the bus number we need. We find the stop and hop on. It is a twenty minute or so bus ride.

My new friend and I part ways, exchanging e-mail addresses and I head back to my hostel exhausted and ready to lay down.

The rest of the night is pretty simple. More reading. I meet some people in the common room and talk to them. Even walk a movie with them. Nice people, from all over. A very pleasant night overall. The adventure is not just about what I see or who I meet, but just the experiences I have and today was full of good ones.

Rainy, Cloudy and Cold - The Traditional Scotland Experience

The next morning I wake up to the joy of rain. It is warmer than the day before, but still cold. Now it is just complimented with rain and clouds. Not a hard rain that soaks you, but one that keeps you sufficiently wet and uncomfortable.

I get ready and head to the castle gates to meet my new French friend. We get there, get tickets and start the tour. Sadly, it is raining and that means low visibility, which ruins some of the effect of the view. But still, we tour the museums, buildings and see the official Scottish Crown Jewels. Very cool, but kind of like comparing your artistic 8-year old nieces drawing to a Van Gogh. Impressive, but not a masterpiece.

After the tour we walk around the old town together. Get lunch, check out the old Parliament building and gift shop. Now, that day was a big day for me. Why? Because I am a nerd, that is why. After about 2.5 years wait, the final book in the Eragon series was coming out and there is no way I wasn't buying it. Luckily, my accomplice on today's adventure is a fellow reader of the fantasy genre. Not this series, but there was no judgement in my request to go book shopping.

We find a store and I buy the 1000+ page tome in my backpack. After this we keep walking for awhile and try to make it down to the bay. After some confusion, we figure out how but have run out of time. My friend has to be back at her hostel by 4pm to check on some work stuff. I am tired and feel crappy in the rain and so we part ways never to see each other again. ::Tear:: But thus is the life of an adventurer. (You can see I like to dramatize and romanticize my trip).

I go back to the hostel, the sun as almost set (we are far North) and just pull out my new book. In all honesty, I spend most my night reading it. I am sit, cold and tired. What better than reading a book? It just sucks that it happens to be in such an amazing city, which so much to do. But I am at the peak of my cold and really don't want try to make more new friends in my state of discomfort. Plus, who wants to hang out with the sick guy?

Well, disregarding my previous comment, later that night I make some more friends. I notice an American guy talking to two girls. They make a joke and I laugh, revealing I had just heard it. Afraid I sounded creepy, I apologize and instead they invite me to their conversation. The guy is from California and doing a similar trip to mine. One girl is from Liverpool, England and the other from Athens, Greece. After a bit I find out that they are sisters. 1/2 English, 1/2 Greek. Each raised in both, but decided to live in different countries. It was confusing because one sounded like she had a Greek accent and the other sounded pure British.

They are really nice and friendly and I enjoy the conversation. The guy is nice, but clearly is trying to impress these girls. For a little bit the conversations seems to be a competition for who has a bigger wang between me and this guy, except I didn't realize I was playing. When I caught on and realized he apparently cared about winning I let him go and feel like he won. He was a little socially awkward. Well intentioned, but still awkward.

After a bit the girls say they need to go, leaving the next day (bummer, got along with them). The guy tries to convince them to stay, but they are not having it. He keeps engaging them in conversation and they kept saying good-bye, politely, but progressively more annoyed. The sister that didn't get trapped in the loop keeps talking to me as she waits for her sister to escape. I promise not to abandon her to the wild before than. Finally, I notice a break in the guys rant and decide to throw the sisters a bone. I say, "Man, I am tired, I really need to go to bed, see ya." And the sisters spring on it and start to follow my lead to the dorms. The guy keeps following (same hostel) but now can't get the momentum. Pack, as I break away towards my dorm room, the sister mouths, "thanks!" And who says chivalry is dead? I will have you know the sister I was talking to was cute and interesting, but I sacrificed that conversation time for their well being. Modern day white knight, I am. Also, I was tired.

To Scotland and Beyond!

Okay, for now, just mostly to Scotland. I wake up early after a terrible night of sleep and have no doubt left, I am getting sick....again. What is it with my luck and going on my longer trips and getting a cold? First in Sweden, now here. Oh well, I guess.

I catch my train, though after a little confusion figuring out which train. All of the trains for this company, which has its own train lines were about an hour late. This is something easy to adjust to and understand for locals, for me, the system to explain this was about as foreign as the French language to me. Through pure luck I get on the right train though.

The airport is simple enough. I hang out for a few hours waiting for my flight. After a one hour flight I land outside of Edinburgh. I hop on a bus for a good 35-minute ride into the city.

Now, I wasn't prepared for Edinburgh. I had heard good things and was excited, but as I drove into the city my jaw dropped and I was blown away. Spoiler alert: Edinburgh is the most beautiful city I have ever seen.

The entire city is built to make you feel like you are in a giant castle/fortress. The architectural style is a neo-classical meets gothic Greece style and almost every building matches in color as if the entire city was quite literally built in a single day by the same group. To top it all off, there is a castle in the very middle of it....on a giant hill, siting on a cliff. You can't get more badass than that. That is the small mountains surrounding the city on one side and the bay/sea on the other.

Quite conveniently for me the bus drops me off 100 meters from my hostel. I go inside, check-in and decide to use my last few remaining hours of sunlight to walk around the city. Sadly, it is very, very cold. Not rainy, but cold and cloudy. My hostel is right in the city center. I walk through the old town, climbing the hill as I go and end up in front of the castle gates. At this point the sun is close to setting.

I am feeling pretty crappy at this point, so I pull out my iPad, get a drink and just relax at the bar in my hostel. After about an hour I hear they are going to do a trivia game in the bar. I guess it is a weekly thing on Mondays. Sounds good to me, I have no team, but better than just sitting around. Most of the groups tend to know each other. Surprising that the hostel bar is a common place for regulars. I later find out that more regulars come to this bar than travelers. Mixed blessing.

I name my group, "The guy in the black coat sitting by himself in the corner - DONT LOOK." Creative? Lame? Don't care! I had fun with it. As he is reading off team names and points I get quite a few chuckles. The whole point is everyone looks for me, sees me and then he reads the don't look. You might think that stupid, but I think that kind of thing is hilarious. That is a good summary of my sense of humor.

Shortly before the second round a group of four people in their early twenties walk into the bar. One of the girls comes over to me and says in a French accent, "Hey it is good to see you again." I run through my head when I have seen her and then realize she has mistaken me for someone else. I get that a lot. I swear I have the most average appearance in the caucasian world. That or am part of a giant government cloning project. Which honestly, I would be okay with, I just want answers government!

Anyhow, I politely inform her I am the wrong guy. She feels pretty embarrassed, but I explain that happens a lot. She is clearly very nice and not shy. I invite her group I join me for trivia. I explain it has only been one round, it's teams and I am going solo. They decide to get a drink and join. I quickly change our name to "Life is an Adventure - Now with friends!"

They story is, two of these girls are from France. They just met in their hostel (different one). One is studying in Ireland and the other is moving to Edinburgh on a whim to find a job. The other two guys, one from Spain and one from the Netherlands are also studying with the first girl in Ireland.

We play the game, get to know each other etc and do pretty good. We manage to come in third, but mostly just have a good time. The three students are going back to Ireland the next day, but the other French girl is obviously staying. Her and I made plans to meet up to go sight-seeing the next day. She hasn't toured the castle or done much and I prefer to not spend the entire time alone. Perfect combination!

Since the sweet mistress that is sleep decided to allude me the night before, after they depart I decide to get some sleep. Unfortunately for me my room is beyond freezing. I get into bed, under the sheet, cover, fully dressed and wearing my coat and am still too cold to sleep. Both heaters in the room seem to be broken....great. I go to the front desk, he can't fix it until the next day and just tells me to take an extra comforter. Which solves the problem well enough for the night. But the cold scores no points for me against my cold.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Leaving Bury and back to London

It is a Sunday and I am leaving Bury after a good weekend hanging out with an old friend. I leave pretty early in the morning. Well, early for me, 10am or so. It is cold out, colder than it has been since I got to England.

The English train system is screwy. First of all, it is damn expensive. Secondly, it is stupid. So a ticket from Bury to London was about 28 pounds. I had one change in Cambridge. So I looked at just booking a ticket to Cambridge from Bury and then Cambridge to London. 18 pounds. Cheaper to buy the two separate tickets....sounds good to me. So I bought a ticket to Cambridge and decided I will see the city that afternoon before heading back to London

I go to the train station and after some confusion find out the trains are not running. This is worrysome. After some mumbled English from an old man working there I found out they are running buses on the same routes. Takes more time, but I won't complain, I have nowhere to be.

After 1.5 hours I get to Cambridge. Only, I get to the train station, which is not very central. After some questions and reading signs I guess that I can hop on a bus and get to the city center. Luckily, I was right.

Now, Cambridge is a pretty small city, but it is very beautiful. It has a very ancient look to it. Exactly how you would imagine in so many ways. It has the University (Cambridge) all over, kind of like the entire city is its campus. You have the shops and homes lining narrow streets. Think Diagon Alley from Harry Potter and you are close to what Cambridge is like.

I walked around the city for a few hours, enjoy the sights, walked around the University areas I could access and felt I got my fill of the city and it was time to move on. Though, I left wishing I could go to school there. I loved KU, still do really, but I would have liked that more traditional University feel. Smaller, older, more traditions, etc.

After getting back to the train station I head to London. The train is packed full. Never fun, but oh well. I get to London and it is late and cold. I have started to feel a tickle in my throat, which worries me, but doesn't alarm me too much. I get checked into my hostel (right next to my other one). As the night goes on the tickle gets worse.

As I have to get up at 7am to catch a train to the airport I try to go to bed early. This does not prove easy. Around 2am some jerks come into the room, turn all the lights on and talk at a regular tone. Finally, someone tells them to shut up. They quite down, but keep the lights on while they get their stuff together. After about 20 minutes they hit the lights and go to bed as well. This was just good foreshadowing to my bad sleep. That tickle turned into a huge scratchy throat. I felt like I had a mild fever all night. Just restless, hot, etc.

Oh joy!

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

A Relaxing Weekend in England

The weekend in Bury St. Edmund was really great. It was relaxing. I was hanging out with an old friend in a quite town in England. Sometimes I think, "Tom, you are in a foreign country, see everything! Don't waste time!." But a part of me realized over time that when you are traveling for months on end, you want to stop feeling like a tourist and feel more at home sometimes. This weekend was great for that. I could have gone out and done more, visited more towns, etc, but instead Chris and I just hung out and it was great. We even joked about how it felt like old times....but we are in England.

During the day we walked around the city, Chris showing me the historical parts of the city. Mainly the ruins of an ancient church that you can walk around in. After that he needed to stop by his military base to pick a few things up. I joined him on his journey. It is about 30 minutes from where he lives. The base is shared between US Airforce and the Royal Airforce.

It was fun to go on base and see how things operated. We went to a local food joint and I got a real, American cheeseburger. Dang that sucker was good.

After that we went back to his place, hung out, had a few beers, dinner, etc. Then we decided to hit the pubs that night. We hopped from one to another enjoying some English beer along the way.

The highlight of the night was my social experiment involving women. So, I am not an unattractive guy, but I am pretty average. Height, looks, build etc. I am happy with it, but I am not the type of guy that girls see at a bar and think, "I want that guy to come hit on me." I am the type where you have a good conversation and two or three times of hanging out you see my attractiveness (or never want to see me again, goes either way).

I decided to try something different tonight in my approach. Chris and I meet a few English girls, all teachers near by, around our age. We are chatting, they are fairly disinterested, but enjoying the conversation. Problem was, more of them than of us (6-2 ratio). You may think that good, but it makes it harder to break them away.

Now when people ask me what I do I usually explain I left my job to back pack Europe. I worked in advertising and marketing for a software company before. This time around I phrased it differently. I said, "Oh I am just back packing around Europe for 3 months. Back home I had a software company that I helped turn profit and it was finally time to relax after too many 80 hour work weeks." From here the two girls I was talking to became extremely interested in everything I had to say. Why? Because they assumed I owned a company and was rich, which allowed me to travel.

The change in demeanor was incredible. They stopped talking to each other and only focused on me. I even tried to sabotage my self and it failed. I talked about "advantages of being a nerd," and they responded with, "Oh nerds are awesome, so cool!?" I said things like, "but software is really boring so.." and they would respond with, "No, I think it's all so interesting." It just blew my mind the completely different reaction it all had. I was both amused and saddened. Do I really need money to make people that much more interested in me?

After awhile a guy Chris and I were talking to came up and joined in. I used that as an excuse to talk to him and then Chris and I bailed on the group and went home.

I learned something that night. I need to get rich, fast! No, no, just kidding. I learned that if I am ever rich, when I meet girls (if still single) I am not going to tell them I am rich. I don't like how the attitude towards me changed. I knew that it was true, but had never personally experienced it my self before.

There is a famous saying on the Internet, almost the motto of the nerd.

"Disregard women, acquire currency." The first will always follow the second.

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Update/Recap on My Journey

By popular demand - meaning Brett's suggestion - here is a recap of my trip so far and my tentative plan for the last 1.5 months.

I will list out the cities and countries in order of my travels and time spent there....roughly the time spent there, excuse errors, I am not looking at a calendar for it.

Trip 1
Rome, Italy (4 days)
Florence, Italy (2 days)
San Giminano, Italy (1 day)
Sienna, Italy (1 day)
Florence, Italy (2 days)
Bologna, Italy (1 day)

Trip 2
Budapest, Hungary (7 days)
Vienna, Austria (3 days)

Trip 3
Stockholm, Sweden (5 days)
Copenhagen, Denmark (4 days)
Hamburg, Germany (3 days)
Breda, Netherlands (3 days)
Rotterdam, Netherlands (1 day)
Amsterdam, Netherlands (3 days)
Brussels, Belgium (2 days)

Trip 4
Budapest, Hungary (6 days)
Nyiregyhaza, Hungary (2 days)
Budapest, Hungary (4 days)

Trip 5
London, England (4 days) +Stonehenge
Lavenham, England (1/2 day)
Bury St. Edmund, England (2 days)
Cambridge, England (1/2 day)
London, England (1 day)
Edinburgh, Scotland (4 days)
Scottish Highlands (1/2 day)
Glasgow, Scotland (1 day)
Dublin, Ireland (4 days)
Western Ireland (1 day)
Paris, France (4 days)

Trip 6
Budapest, Hungary (5 days)

Trip 7
Munich, Germany (2 days)
Ravensburg, Germany (3 days) + Neuschwanstein Castle
Tubingen, Germany (1 day)

Trip 8
Budapest, Hungary (here now).

I am in Budapest until the 16th of December, when I go to Istanbul, Turkey for 7 days. During my time here in Budapest, I will travel around Hungary a little. I will hopefully go visit Bratislava, Slovakia and Prague if I can.

Then I will travel to Frankfurt, Germany to spend Christmas with the Shaw family. Then back to Budapest on the 28th of December. I will wait here for friends and family for Matt and Edit's wedding. I will act as a tour guide. Then we have the wedding on January 7th. Then to Zurich, Switzerland on January 10th and back to Kansas Jan. 12th.

It is a weird feeling. Part of me feels like I just started my journey, while the other part feels like I have never lived outside Europe. I have grown and changed as a person here. I have struggled to figure out who I am and who I want to be and how to get there. I have confronted so many of my inner demons. Some battles lost and others won.

Matt Shaw asked me this question when I got here, "Do you feel like Europe is normal and the United States is a fantasy land that you can't really picture fully yet?" At first I told him no and I didn't get it. Then one day I realized I felt so comfortable in Europe, I felt at home. Even though I was seeing new and amazing things every day, it didn't seem weird or foreign, it felt real. Then I tried to imagine Kansas and the United States and it felt unreal. Kind of like thinking about a cartoon. You can remember it, but only certain details, as if the little things have no definition at all....it was just a fantasy land. Now I understood what Matt meant.

Either way, the Tom that left Kansas is not the Tom that is coming back, but I am who I want to be. I feel like I have not only found my path and embraced it, but taken control of it and am ready to drive it forward. In short, I am happy again, but this time the happiness won't leave me because it is not based on anyone other than myself.

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Going Home...Well My Ancestral Home Anyway and Visiting an Old Friend

Today is going to be an exciting day. There are two things I am greatly looking forward to. One is to visit my good friend from high school, Chris Stewart, who is in the Air Force and stationed in England. I will be staying with him for a few days, hanging out and catching up. The second is yet another thing of my life long dreams list; visiting Lavenham, England the ancestral home of my Mom's side of the family (Spring).

I start the morning off with a traditional English breakfast and then head to the train station (about 100 meters from my hostel). I first am taking a train to a city called (Fill in). From there I can take a bus that will drop me off in Lavenham. Lavenham is a very small village, now mostly popular as a "traditional English village" and a popular tourist spot. Locals are moving out in the droves because they can't afford to live there anymore as it is just a tourist zone, compared to having any real industry of its own.

After a 1.5 hour train ride and 50 minute bus ride through the English country side I arrive in Lavenham. Let me give you some background on my family history here and why I have wanted to visit so badly.

In the 1500's there was a man named Thomas Spring. He lived in Lavenham, England and by controlling most of the textile industry for all of England became one of richest men in the entire country. At one point he was even said to have been richer than the King himself. He made the Spring family name into a name. He was a baron and later as Lords were established, his descendants would become Lords until the direct English line died off in the 1780's. Lavenham is also famous for its beautiful and historic church, which Thomas Spring funded a great deal of. In fact the entire church is lined with the Spring family crest, the crest is in the stain glass windows and Thomas Spring himself is buried inside the church.

Thomas Spring had 3 children. One, his eldest, became his direct line, later becoming lords. The second's family ended up coming to the United States and that is where I descend from and the third was a daughter who married into another noble family. That noble family is now known as the Windors, aka the current Royal family of England. So yes, technically my family is related to the current Royal family of England. Don't believe me, I can prove it. It is close enough relation that on the family tree I can directly trace up the Windsor line to Thomas Spring as well my own. Confused? Prince William's great-great x8 Grandma is my great-great x8 aunt to simplify. Don't believe me, ask any of my family members or don't believe me.

Lucky for me the bus dropped me off by right next to the church. Given, you can walk across the entire village in about 10 minutes, so it wouldn't have matter too much, but I thought it was a great start. I am just amazed by the place. I have looked at pictures, drawings and paintings of it my entire life (we have a lot of them) and am finally seeing it for my self. I walk up and immediately can see our family crest all around the edges just like my Mom told me it would be. I walk around the church admiring the beautiful landscape and finally make my way inside.

Inside is filled with amazing stain glass windows. My breath was taken away by the level of detail, the amount of colors and shear beauty of them. These are some of the most beautiful stain glass windows I have ever seen to be honest. It was great finding our family crest in stain glass, now I see where my grandparents got the idea for their copy at home. I walk to Thomas Spring's grave and read the information about him. I spend around an hour at the church, just lingering and taking it all in. I don't know when the next time I will be here, if ever again, will be.

After the church I walk around the village and a cold front is quickly over taking the beautiful day. I head to the bus stop and wait for my ride. Lucky for me the bus that runs though Lavenham just happens to be the bus that goes to Bury St. Edmond, which is where Chris lives. It is another 40 minutes to the city.

Chris had described where he lived. In an apartment over some shops in the main shopping district. It is a brand new shop. He is over the H&M, across from Voda Phone. The bus drops me off at this shopping district and I look right in front of me and there is H & M and Voda Phone. Couldn't get easier than that. Chris is still at work, so I wander the area for an hour or so until he gets home.

It was great seeing Chris. Now, Chris is around 6'6 or 6'7, so you can't miss him. I haven't seen him in a more than a year. We head inside his awesome apartment/bachelor pad and start to unwind. We just sit there chatting, catching up and drinking a beer. After awhile of hanging out we decide to get some food. He orders a pizza and we head down the street to pick it up. There are two doors, one to his apartment (key) and one to the apartment area (electronic key)

As we leave his apartment he says, "want to hear a funny story?" Of course my answer is yes, who doesn't? Evil people, that is who.

He starts to tell me about one day a friend was over and couldn't find her way out of his complex (not a smart friend). He left his apartment to go help her find her way out. He is only wearing basketball shorts at this point. (Sorry Chris, just too good of a story not to share).

He lets her out and is talking to her outside the electronic door. She leaves and he turns to go back in only to realize he left his keys in his apartment. The guards can let him past the first door, but he still doesn't have his keys to get into his door.

At this point in the story he stops dead in his tracks, gets this worried look on his face and starts to check his pockets, slowly as first and then very quickly in a frantic motion. He goes, "well fuck." I get it right away and start laughing so hard I almost cry. He forgot his keys and locked us out. right in the middle of the story about locking him self out (the only time he has done it) he did it again for the second time. Too good to be true.

We go and get the pizza and head to the security guards area to get let in. Luckily this time he left his apartment door unlocked, so we just need to get through the electronic door. Also, luckily Chris is wearing cloths.

Want to hear the rest of the Chris's story? (again, sorry Chris).

So Chris, in only basketball shorts, goes to the security guard area. They call a locksmith and he says its going to be at least 4 hours until he can get there. The security guard tells him to makes himself comfortable in the lounge. Now here is the thing, the security guard area is also in the office space area that businesses rent.

So on a work day Chris is just sitting there in his shorts, no shirt reading a newspaper and drinking a coffee as men and women in suits walk past looking at him in confusion. Good thing for Chris he has a great sense of humor. He just looks at them, nods or raises his coffee mug like nothing is wrong. "Oh hey Jim, hear about United? Great game." Unluckily for Chris, after about 4 hours the locksmith says he can't make it. He find another one and after about 6-7 total hours of hanging out in this lounge he gets back into his apartment.

Chris and I decide to take the rest of the evening calming. It is Friday, he is tired, I am tired. We play some video games, chat, watch some TV and relax. You may think, "what, that sounds lame, you just met up in a foreign country." Well, let me tell you. Sometimes after months of travel you just want to feel normal. Hang out with a bud and do normal things, not crazy abnormal adventure things.